WATTS WORKS - ON FAVORITISM, SPACE, AND DELICIOUS BEANS

One could argue quite convincingly that the word favorite ought to be decommissioned on the grounds that it is somewhat static and exclusionary in its very essence.

 
drying patios

Drying patio at Los Pastores, Antigua, Guatemala

One could argue quite convincingly that the word favorite ought to be decommissioned on the grounds that it is somewhat static and exclusionary in its very essence. Certainly in the culinary realm, as in the world of music or other arts, I’ve always found that the greatest joys lie in developing an appreciation for differences, whether they be as startling as the taste of tiramisu next to a crunchy dill pickle, or as subtle as the slight stretching of a beat which injects tension into a drum pattern. Coffee is as perfect a venue for such explorations as any other; the spectrum of flavor nuance and character between origins, or between regions within origins, is wonderfully expansive. Add to this the dynamic nature of roasting and brewing and it becomes clear that nearly every single cup takes on a certain, if subtle, level of individuality. How then to pick one coffee to elevate above its peers? Or even five or six? Perhaps the best solution is to frame things in another manner. I’ve just signed on to take a trip to Saturn, and due to luggage restrictions, I can bring only one type of coffee. How’s that for a bind?

Without hesitation, I climb aboard the interstellar ship with a bag full of Guatemalan beans, feeling secure in my choice because the coffees produced in this country are, in my opinion, as complete as they come. Coffees from the historically underrated Fraijanes region in particular have captured my heart, the great ones possessing striking fruit tones and rich chocolate notes with a body like a gymnast: lithe and well-defined, if slightly compact. At their best, these coffees offer a complexity I would call swashbuckling--full of vigor, with enough attitude to make Han Solo stand down, yet tempered with a mild underlying sweetness that endures from start to finish. To ask for anything more would be shamelessly greedy. But perhaps that’s all right in this case, considering the breadth of variety this country has to offer. Let’s blend in some beans from San Marcos, grown in the cloud forests of the Pacific coast, which I’ve found to be a bit softer, with pronounced flavor notes of chocolate and spice, exceptionally lush body for a Central American bean, and a depth that makes each sip sublime. Or how about a heavyweight from the renowned Antigua region, which produces coffees that are tremendously well balanced and elegant, with generous layers of dark chocolate, fruit, and spice flavors delivered with a stirring and assertive sense of grace. What I find particularly alluring about Guatemalan coffees in general, and what qualifies them especially to accompany me into space, are their versatility—equally great as a morning cup, as a steady, all-day sipper, or in accompaniment to a fine dinner. Roasted several seconds into the second “pop”, until the oils are standing right on the verge of emerging onto the surface of the bean, these coffees shine like no other, producing aromas that sing like a siren, and can intoxicate from across the room.

For anyone that has the opportunity, a visit to these areas is most highly recommended. Guatemala is a country of stunning beauty, with a compelling charm that is a tonic for anyone who has grown used to the relatively sterilized environment of the more “developed” nations. It is a place rich in substance, with an enduring spirit that is vital and seemingly timeless. And the coffee rocks.

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